December 27, 2010

Real work is cutting a sunny day short.

December 26th, HB Surf Report

Merry Christmas. Woke up to 5-10 MPH on-shores this morning, cold dreary and wet everywhere. Hit a rode block while trying to get my morning joe, leaving me walking about for half an hour before making it onto the beach. By the time the camera got set up the winds were variable offshore to calm, and the sun was shining just a bit. The local boys had an eye on conditions and within the twenty minutes of filming i had done, about ten to fifteen people entered the water on either side of the pier. It is 10:15 now and the HB smokestack is slowly spindling upwards, without a lick of drag on its billowy cylinder. Conditions have improved since this morning


There is still lots of trash down on the beach, but the tide and winds are looking like they might make for a decent beach day. Make sure you pick up a few pieces of plastic if you make it today, every little bit helps.

Christmas Eve, 2010

Have a great Christmas, no report tomorrow.

December 25th, 2010 HB

What a beautiful day after the rain. The sky was enormous and colorful, the waves were clean and head high, and the tractor was fetching logs from the shoreline.






Its been quite a few days since the last post. With the days of rain, internet trouble, bus rides to work, and the holidays, I have been slacking off on the surf report. I have a lot of plans - regarding editing, film quality, "production", and timing - I hope to completely reformat the website soon as well, in order to provide better usability for people checking the site. This is a sort of dry run while g work out all the kinks and get the ball rolling, with the ultimate goal of expanding the site and the follower-base. I am also upgrading my internet soon because i need to get the posts online as early as possible, and they are currently taking three to four hours to upload.

To the multitude of fans I have out there (...wow), thank you for reading, and please continue your support. I know there are a total of two of you, but you will be able to say you have been there from the beginning. This will all be set in-line after New Years and there will be surf reports everyday.

December 10, 2010 - HB Surf Report

Waves have defnitely bulked up over the last few days and this morning we found chest to overhead high waves, and barreling. The South Side was packed as usual, but the left going into the pier was working wonders and in the ten minutes of footage I saw two complete cover-ups, one super deep. I wish I had a better camera, with that and the low light from the thick fog you cant see too much definition. Hopefully I'll be able to improve on the quality soon. Beach temps are mild, not too cold, but with that eerie feeling that fog brings. Beach is lightly crowded, especially on the North Side. The rising tide throughout the morning might whack out the waves, but at least we have enough swell to work through the deeper waters. Have a good one, see you tomorrow.

December 9 - MattySRPt

Waves definitely picked up today, lots of kookiness out in the water.



I also wanted to let anyone who receives emails know that I will no longer send those automatic emails every time I post; it should be an everyday thing and I don't want to impose on anyone. I will be implementing some kind of an email subscription option soon, in case you would still like direct email links.

December 7th, 2010 - HB report

I bet the water was cold this morning, but the sun came out and the swell came up. Looked like a lot of fun out there, except the tidal swamp-thing was on it. Go have a surf, watch out for trash and keep your mouth closed.

December 6th 2010 Surf Report

Surf Report - December 5th, 2010

Here is the surf report for this morning. Get some. Its cold



Solspot.com

December 3rd, 2010

Surf report December 3rd, 2010

Andy Irons Memorial Paddle - HB

There is not much for me to say. Its amazing to see the outpouring of love and respect from the community over the passing of Andy Irons.









Would it be expected for any other famous athlete or celebrity?



Surely, plenty will mourn our stars, but this experience seemed so genuine and unique that I can only contemplate life and how one can have an effect on so many.




Find more pictures and stories here:
http://sports.espn.go.com/action/surfing/news/story?id=5807207


You should also check out the live webcast for the Reef Hawaiian Pro which is part of the Vans Triple Crown. We will be able to watch live video of the prime Hawaiian surf season for the next few weeks, with the best surfers in the world all isolated on a tiny rock in the middle of the great blue Pacific.
http://triplecrownofsurfing.com/reefhawaiianpro/live

Marginally Crowded

Wow, have you ever seen such a crowd out in Huntington? Pretty cool stuff.



If you are wondering, I'm way down south in the line-up, wearing a wetsuit and holding a surfboard. I'm also wearing a white and red striped shirt.

Offshore

I have to run to work, yes its a sad fact that I am missing one of the seven offshore events of the year - hopefully it will continue into tomorrow.

AI

Quoted from the Rip Curl Pro website:

A few words from Kelly, Mick, Steph, and CJ:

9X World Champion, Kelly Slater

"Everyone had their own connection with Andy on so many different levels. He was a classic guy. Although he and I butted heads a lot years ago, I have a million good memories of Andy and we have become pretty good friends since."

"There aren't words to describe this. Unfortunately, I've been through this with friends and there's nothing that can make it better. You just have to feel it and process all those memories."

2X World Champion, Mick Fanning

"It was good having the paddle-out and getting everyone together. We're a surfing family. We all look out for each other. So just for us to paddle out and show our respects to

Andy, to his family, to all his friends on Kaui and Hawaii - it means a lot. We're all hurting right now and we're just wanting to pay our respects today."

"Andy was incredible. I think he was a person that always wore his heart on his sleeve. He didn't try to impress anyone. He was just all about what he wanted to do. He was an amazing competitor and an amazing friend. But I haven't just lost a friend here, I've lost my brother. It's hard to take."


4X World Champion, Stephanie Gilmore

"Andy in particular was an amazing guy. He was one of the most beautiful human-beings. Such an incredible competitor, but always so gentle and so kind. He always gave you the time of day. No matter where you were or how busy he was, he'd stop and say hi and ask how you were going. He's going to be really, really missed by everyone. I think everybody admires him so much and he'll never be forgotten."

1X World Champion, CJ Hobgood

"I think the biggest thing is that we are thankful for so much. I'm thankful to be a surfer because we are family. I'm thankful to be a part of Andy's family. I've traveled with him since I was 12 years old and I believe that he has made me a better person; he's made everyone around him a better person."

"I think all of the surfers here today understand that you can't ever know when your time is up, so it's comforting to know that we were all here for him as one."

Andy Irons Passes Away

Despite the gorgeous conditions that Southern California is experiencing today, a dark silhouette keeps the surfing community at a loss.

Today is a day of mourning in the surfing world. There is shock and disbelief circling the entire globe right now, as professional surfers in Puerto Rico take a day to reflect on there peers accomplishments and life, and news wires fill up regarding the death of a young man in his prime. Andy Irons, 3x World Champion, was only 32 when he passed away, and it is speculated that he may have succumbed to illness.

A quote from the ASP, "Irons, 32, withdrew from a professional surfing event in Puerto Rico last weekend due to illness, and passed away during a layover en-route to his home in Kauai, Hawaii. He had reportedly been battling with Dengue Fever, a viral disease."

"Irons, who began his career with the elite ASP World Tour in 1998, went on to collect 20 elite tour victories, four Triple Crown of Surfing Titles, three consecutive ASP World Titles and change the sport forever with his unparalleled ability and comprehensive approach to surfing."

We recently watched him take home a win at the Billabong Pro in Tahiti and he looked prime tocontinue moving forward with his success. More information will be relayed when it is made available, but this is truly a deep wound in the surfing community.

See also:


News was taken from http://surf.solspot.com/content/solspot/cso/andy-irons-passes-away

ASP Update

Congratualtions Mick Fanning on winning the 2010 Quiksilver France. He moved from the number five spot on the ASP World Tour into the number three spot. Kelly Slater, who placed as runner-up behind Fanning, maintained his number one positioning despite his finish. He should be able to grab his next world title if he has good finishes at the last three events and Mick Fanning or Jordy Smith don't come in first in those three events consecutively.

The next event at Supertubos in Peniche, Portugual will begin in two days on October 7th; there is a gigantic storm swirling in the Mid-Atlantic that should be blasting the western coast of portugual just as the event begins.

For live viewing, media, and news check out...

http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?Portugal2010

Windy Wednesday

Yesterday was a beautiful surf day in Orange County. The waves today are a little crumbly, still with some nice size, but lacking that glassiness that really gets you excited.

Quiksilver France is live today, the third day of the event. Today's waves are 6-8 feet, pumping windblown barrels - ski assistance is in full effect. Check it out.

http://quiksilverlive.com/profrance2010/live.en.html

The Quiksilver Pro France's waiting period commences on September 25 and runs through October 5, 2010; it is being held on multiple beaches in the Southwest of France. The seventh stop on the ASP world tour, with Portugal being the next surf destination, will end only two days before the next event begins, as the World Title Race really gets rolling as it nears its conclusion.

Here's a couple pictures to stare at.

Mr Pitt 4.0

Hurley Pro

We are heading out to Trestles for the Hurley Pro. Probably going to watch round 1 before i head to work later this afternoon. You can watch it from the comfort of your own home if you so choose, here is the link.

http://www.hurley.com/hurleypro/live.cfm

Should be a fun day

Crawlow

My first video edit. I have no idea what I am doing, this is all trial and error; I am using a free video editor called Jahshaka. When i render the video the audio gets a little messed up. If anyone knows anything about editing or has tips/insight on how to make better videos technically and artistically, your comments are very much appreciated.

Thanks and enjoy.

Billabong Tahiti Pro

The final day of the Billabong Pro Tahiti saw a lot of great action from slashing to epic tube-riding. Unfortunately, the waves stayed in the chest to head high range and we never really got to see Teahupoo in its full glory. For anyone who is interested you can check out the final day highlights here, or travel over to the site to see a full arsenal of video highlights.



Next stop : Trestles!

I also want to leave a link to a great surf forecasting website. It is my go to source for any in-depth information I want concerning the waves and winds. It also has great articles, a few nice surf cams, and plenty of forecasting tutorials. Check it out if you are interested.

SolSpot.com

Sunset

I'm still working on getting my underwater cam back to snapping some pics. Got a few from the pier

New South and a Full Moon in HB

Surf is up, big energetic swells swarm the coast. Winds are on it just enough to make you a little nervous; closed-out beach breaks. Sunday was picturesque and this 'summer weather' may leave the critics with a bad sunburn.

Cant wait to get rolling again - I've been surfing everyday, but there is something about 3-5 and meaty that makes you want to bring a surf buddy out there with you, of which I seem to be sparing on the best/biggest days. Pass today? that is a tough decision.

More pictures to come.

New place, no internet, good things to come.

Avoiding the spill

A couple of my cousins from Texas were in town and called me to take them surfing. It was their first time and they did great.

Sorry about the poor shooting quality and length of the videos. I guess that is what you get with amateurs (me, not them). Make sure you check it out in HD.

My camera got water in it somehow during this session so I'll be sending it back to Kodak for a new one






They were comfortable in the water and on their boards, and had nothing but smiles when they would eat it.







Great day in Newport as usual, and thank you Poseidon for your grace.

More goodness

A few more shots

Cali Dreamin

It wasn't empty, then it was. Fun day, can't wait for more. Stay tuned

Independence Day

So i woke up a little late on Sunday, hearing the night before that there was no way it would be worth it to try and show up at the beach amidst the throngs of imported alcohol beverage consumers. I figured if I showed up in the morning it wouldn't be too crowded yet and I might be able to catch some of the new SW swell. Unfortunately, by the time I made up my mind it was noon.

Newport was swarming, bikes, cops, and closed thoroughfares; every patio from Blackies to 54th was packed full of scantily-clad, oblivious bodies. I slowly (very slowly) made my way to a meter by the little park and tennis courts, truly amazed at how I found a front row spot. I spent about 15 minutes on the sand there, my heart torn as to what I was seeing. The swell was swirling down the jetties in terrific fashion. A consistent mix of three to six foot clean peaks were crushing the sand, but in a way that makes the solo surfer quiver. I know I can make it out, I'll survive, but the reward must equal the task - unexpectedly there were only a handful of people in the water, scattered about over a quarter mile of my vision. Two here, two there, being pounded, finally making it outside, perpetually caught on that quickly wrapping lip, they would sit in no man's land on the cusp of the thrusting wave, futilely pushing on the nose of there boards they would stare down five feet of beach-break and the soon realize the prospect of a big broken stick.




No, not today

Sometimes you need that stoked person next to you raising the bar; I need a step stool to raise it for myself.





I didn't want to retreat but instead regroup. California is full of Secret Spots, and I seemingly stumbled upon one this fine day.








I will be brief with my wordy descriptions because they only serve to do injustice to that which every surfer already knows or which every non-surfer does not understand, that these epic conditions cannot be spoken about but must simply be experienced. You can fill in the blanks...

Malibu style point break, I'm sure is known by many, but only truly known by few, as you can see in the photos. I paddled out and kept my distance, as a guest should, along the shoulder for maybe three to four sets. Mind you, I was nervous - I did not know the break, or the locals, and I am not at all used to waves that are over head-high. I patiently watched as this group of five would each take off one at a time from the outer reef (rock) and with true local expertise, would cut a line along side the rock straight down, there knees absorbing the kinetic energy, and storing as potential. A deep bottom turn preceded the expulsion of this energy, returning it to its original kinetic form. It was a pleasure to watch and I had no desire to take there waves, watching this true form of the sport from the shoulder was enough for me. My camera was almost out of battery, and I didn't want to be shunned from the beautiful right-hander, so I left the gadget in my bag on the beach. I would wait until the line-up was clear, as the set would lose a little steam, and paddle out of the channel, back over the underground structure(s). There were plenty of mid-size waves to be had and it seemed they were happy to let me have them after displaying my good manners (and considering the 8ft sets they had for themselves).



July 5th, Deeper south in OC

























My brother received a few days leave and came surfing with me and Guiness.









I'm not trying to rub it in or be too specific, but for the sake of context, they both got blanked. It was still very big with the SW swell holding up through Monday, and sometimes it is just enough to paddle out into the line-up when you are still beginning. Those days when you wouldn't dare take that drop, and the crowd is electric around you, you can still gain so much by just being out in the water and partaking in that communal sense. I grabbed a few, nothing special; I fully understand my place in a crowded line-up on one of the best days of the season.









On a side note, I hope I waited long enough to post pictures of "the best swell of the Summer" (Haha I laugh at myself, like I am important). I don't want to be personally responsible for the crowding of every spot along these two-three hundred miles of coast. I hope you understand my cynicism.

I mean, really? It seems that if you have a camera and you get pictures, you display them, if you work hard and work fast you reap the benefits of your rewards. Oh ya, and trying not to catch a beat down from the locals is always a good work ethic, but ultimately I'm with you unnamed Wedge photog.

Let's get along guys.