So i woke up a little late on Sunday, hearing the night before that there was no way it would be worth it to try and show up at the beach amidst the throngs of imported alcohol beverage consumers. I figured if I showed up in the morning it wouldn't be too crowded yet and I might be able to catch some of the new SW swell. Unfortunately, by the time I made up my mind it was noon.
Newport was swarming, bikes, cops, and closed thoroughfares; every patio from Blackies to 54th was packed full of scantily-clad, oblivious bodies. I slowly (very slowly) made my way to a meter by the little park and tennis courts, truly amazed at how I found a front row spot. I spent about 15 minutes on the sand there, my heart torn as to what I was seeing. The swell was swirling down the jetties in terrific fashion. A consistent mix of three to six foot clean peaks were crushing the sand, but in a way that makes the solo surfer quiver. I know I can make it out, I'll survive, but the reward must equal the task - unexpectedly there were only a handful of people in the water, scattered about over a quarter mile of my vision. Two here, two there, being pounded, finally making it outside, perpetually caught on that quickly wrapping lip, they would sit in no man's land on the cusp of the thrusting wave, futilely pushing on the nose of there boards they would stare down five feet of beach-break and the soon realize the prospect of a big broken stick.
No, not today
Sometimes you need that stoked person next to you raising the bar; I need a step stool to raise it for myself.
I didn't want to retreat but instead regroup. California is full of Secret Spots, and I seemingly stumbled upon one this fine day.
I will be brief with my wordy descriptions because they only serve to do injustice to that which every surfer already knows or which every non-surfer does not understand, that these epic conditions cannot be spoken about but must simply be experienced. You can fill in the blanks...
Malibu style point break, I'm sure is known by many, but only truly known by few, as you can see in the photos. I paddled out and kept my distance, as a guest should, along the shoulder for maybe three to four sets. Mind you, I was nervous - I did not know the break, or the locals, and I am not at all used to waves that are over head-high. I patiently watched as this group of five would each take off one at a time from the outer reef (rock) and with true local expertise, would cut a line along side the rock straight down, there knees absorbing the kinetic energy, and storing as potential. A deep bottom turn preceded the expulsion of this energy, returning it to its original kinetic form. It was a pleasure to watch and I had no desire to take there waves, watching this true form of the sport from the shoulder was enough for me. My camera was almost out of battery, and I didn't want to be shunned from the beautiful right-hander, so I left the gadget in my bag on the beach. I would wait until the line-up was clear, as the set would lose a little steam, and paddle out of the channel, back over the underground structure(s). There were plenty of mid-size waves to be had and it seemed they were happy to let me have them after displaying my good manners (and considering the 8ft sets they had for themselves).
July 5th, Deeper south in OC
My brother received a few days leave and came surfing with me and Guiness.
I'm not trying to rub it in or be too specific, but for the sake of context, they both got blanked. It was still very big with the SW swell holding up through Monday, and sometimes it is just enough to paddle out into the line-up when you are still beginning. Those days when you wouldn't dare take that drop, and the crowd is electric around you, you can still gain so much by just being out in the water and partaking in that communal sense. I grabbed a few, nothing special; I fully understand my place in a crowded line-up on one of the best days of the season.
On a side note, I hope I waited long enough to post pictures of "the best swell of the Summer" (Haha I laugh at myself, like I am important). I don't want to be personally responsible for the crowding of every spot along these two-three hundred miles of coast. I hope you understand my cynicism.
I mean, really? It seems that if you have a camera and you get pictures, you display them, if you work hard and work fast you reap the benefits of your rewards. Oh ya, and trying not to catch a beat down from the locals is always a good work ethic, but ultimately I'm with you unnamed Wedge photog.
Let's get along guys.
