New Year's Day

Great start to the New Year, I wish the best to everyone and hope good things will come this year.

Andy Irons Memorial Paddle - HB

There is not much for me to say. Its amazing to see the outpouring of love and respect from the community over the passing of Andy Irons.









Would it be expected for any other famous athlete or celebrity?



Surely, plenty will mourn our stars, but this experience seemed so genuine and unique that I can only contemplate life and how one can have an effect on so many.




Find more pictures and stories here:
http://sports.espn.go.com/action/surfing/news/story?id=5807207


You should also check out the live webcast for the Reef Hawaiian Pro which is part of the Vans Triple Crown. We will be able to watch live video of the prime Hawaiian surf season for the next few weeks, with the best surfers in the world all isolated on a tiny rock in the middle of the great blue Pacific.
http://triplecrownofsurfing.com/reefhawaiianpro/live

Windy Wednesday

Yesterday was a beautiful surf day in Orange County. The waves today are a little crumbly, still with some nice size, but lacking that glassiness that really gets you excited.

Quiksilver France is live today, the third day of the event. Today's waves are 6-8 feet, pumping windblown barrels - ski assistance is in full effect. Check it out.

http://quiksilverlive.com/profrance2010/live.en.html

The Quiksilver Pro France's waiting period commences on September 25 and runs through October 5, 2010; it is being held on multiple beaches in the Southwest of France. The seventh stop on the ASP world tour, with Portugal being the next surf destination, will end only two days before the next event begins, as the World Title Race really gets rolling as it nears its conclusion.

Here's a couple pictures to stare at.

Mr Pitt 4.0

Avoiding the spill

A couple of my cousins from Texas were in town and called me to take them surfing. It was their first time and they did great.

Sorry about the poor shooting quality and length of the videos. I guess that is what you get with amateurs (me, not them). Make sure you check it out in HD.

My camera got water in it somehow during this session so I'll be sending it back to Kodak for a new one






They were comfortable in the water and on their boards, and had nothing but smiles when they would eat it.







Great day in Newport as usual, and thank you Poseidon for your grace.

Cali Dreamin

It wasn't empty, then it was. Fun day, can't wait for more. Stay tuned

Independence Day

So i woke up a little late on Sunday, hearing the night before that there was no way it would be worth it to try and show up at the beach amidst the throngs of imported alcohol beverage consumers. I figured if I showed up in the morning it wouldn't be too crowded yet and I might be able to catch some of the new SW swell. Unfortunately, by the time I made up my mind it was noon.

Newport was swarming, bikes, cops, and closed thoroughfares; every patio from Blackies to 54th was packed full of scantily-clad, oblivious bodies. I slowly (very slowly) made my way to a meter by the little park and tennis courts, truly amazed at how I found a front row spot. I spent about 15 minutes on the sand there, my heart torn as to what I was seeing. The swell was swirling down the jetties in terrific fashion. A consistent mix of three to six foot clean peaks were crushing the sand, but in a way that makes the solo surfer quiver. I know I can make it out, I'll survive, but the reward must equal the task - unexpectedly there were only a handful of people in the water, scattered about over a quarter mile of my vision. Two here, two there, being pounded, finally making it outside, perpetually caught on that quickly wrapping lip, they would sit in no man's land on the cusp of the thrusting wave, futilely pushing on the nose of there boards they would stare down five feet of beach-break and the soon realize the prospect of a big broken stick.




No, not today

Sometimes you need that stoked person next to you raising the bar; I need a step stool to raise it for myself.





I didn't want to retreat but instead regroup. California is full of Secret Spots, and I seemingly stumbled upon one this fine day.








I will be brief with my wordy descriptions because they only serve to do injustice to that which every surfer already knows or which every non-surfer does not understand, that these epic conditions cannot be spoken about but must simply be experienced. You can fill in the blanks...

Malibu style point break, I'm sure is known by many, but only truly known by few, as you can see in the photos. I paddled out and kept my distance, as a guest should, along the shoulder for maybe three to four sets. Mind you, I was nervous - I did not know the break, or the locals, and I am not at all used to waves that are over head-high. I patiently watched as this group of five would each take off one at a time from the outer reef (rock) and with true local expertise, would cut a line along side the rock straight down, there knees absorbing the kinetic energy, and storing as potential. A deep bottom turn preceded the expulsion of this energy, returning it to its original kinetic form. It was a pleasure to watch and I had no desire to take there waves, watching this true form of the sport from the shoulder was enough for me. My camera was almost out of battery, and I didn't want to be shunned from the beautiful right-hander, so I left the gadget in my bag on the beach. I would wait until the line-up was clear, as the set would lose a little steam, and paddle out of the channel, back over the underground structure(s). There were plenty of mid-size waves to be had and it seemed they were happy to let me have them after displaying my good manners (and considering the 8ft sets they had for themselves).



July 5th, Deeper south in OC

























My brother received a few days leave and came surfing with me and Guiness.









I'm not trying to rub it in or be too specific, but for the sake of context, they both got blanked. It was still very big with the SW swell holding up through Monday, and sometimes it is just enough to paddle out into the line-up when you are still beginning. Those days when you wouldn't dare take that drop, and the crowd is electric around you, you can still gain so much by just being out in the water and partaking in that communal sense. I grabbed a few, nothing special; I fully understand my place in a crowded line-up on one of the best days of the season.









On a side note, I hope I waited long enough to post pictures of "the best swell of the Summer" (Haha I laugh at myself, like I am important). I don't want to be personally responsible for the crowding of every spot along these two-three hundred miles of coast. I hope you understand my cynicism.

I mean, really? It seems that if you have a camera and you get pictures, you display them, if you work hard and work fast you reap the benefits of your rewards. Oh ya, and trying not to catch a beat down from the locals is always a good work ethic, but ultimately I'm with you unnamed Wedge photog.

Let's get along guys.

Pictures

Some more pictures from the past week.






PJ




Newport, summer

Guinness

Kodak PLAYsport

I got a brand new Kodak PlaySport last Friday and I've been testing it all weekend. Here are some of the pics.

It shoots in 720p @60 fps, or 1080p @ 30 fps. 5MP HD pictures. Its been in the surf three times with no problems so far. I'm very impressed.

Hopefully Ill settle into a rhythm soon, formatting the new blog and deciding on content. Life is exciting right now; that time when something is coming to an end in order to bring a
fresh beginning.

A few more and a vid sample.