June gloom, a manageable phenomenon in relation to the blustery afternoons that this Spring has produced, is once again settling thickly along the beaches from San Diego to LA and beyond. It is a moist and still mass of air that keeps us shaded from the sun during these early summer days.
I am, of course, no expert on the tendencies of the ocean as it heats and cools on a global scale - I am a twenty five year old child, with only eight years of surfing experience, and a meager three years with my watery eyes.
What I mean to say is that while I am inclined to the science and math involved in meteorology, and I am extremely fascinated with the admirable work of true forecasters, all I know is what I've seen. Up until a few years ago I would go out to the beach with a complete misunderstanding of the complex dynamics that the ocean and air have upon one another. For example, if I were going surfing on this day, say, five years ago, I would not check the forecasts or the winds, I would just end up at the beach. Maybe I would find dribblers and toddlers playing with one another; maybe it would be three-to-four feet and semi-glassy at 2PM with no one in the water. Regardless of the conditions, I would not make a mental note and soon forget about that day.
This was the only reason, in my opinion, that my surfing would not progress to the next level. My eyes were dry and full of sand, but now they are watery.
Despite my location, whether near the water or on the land, there is a reflection of the surf in my eyes. Everything I see is an indicator, all my sight is focused on the Earth, air, water and the messages they carry. I'm sure that a large population of Southern Californian beach-goers will relate with me, that we understand winds and weather through a basic human function rather than any sort of calculation or deduction. The extent of our focus is, "If it's hot then it's gonna be hot", and, "if it's supposed to rain then it might rain".
In fact, while my knowledge of the weather and swell patterns for this region have only grown over these last three years, truly making the connection between graph, chart, buoy, and what I am seeing and feeling outside has only occurred within the last year. The crucial moment is when we realize that our human capabilities of intuition and knowledge can create a synergism in which we advance as beings. Even when not related to surfing, this combination of our intellect and our profound soul is something that brings an inner peace, being in accordance with the universe, and can be a valuable tool for all.
