December 26th, HB Surf Report

Merry Christmas. Woke up to 5-10 MPH on-shores this morning, cold dreary and wet everywhere. Hit a rode block while trying to get my morning joe, leaving me walking about for half an hour before making it onto the beach. By the time the camera got set up the winds were variable offshore to calm, and the sun was shining just a bit. The local boys had an eye on conditions and within the twenty minutes of filming i had done, about ten to fifteen people entered the water on either side of the pier. It is 10:15 now and the HB smokestack is slowly spindling upwards, without a lick of drag on its billowy cylinder. Conditions have improved since this morning


There is still lots of trash down on the beach, but the tide and winds are looking like they might make for a decent beach day. Make sure you pick up a few pieces of plastic if you make it today, every little bit helps.

Christmas Eve, 2010

Have a great Christmas, no report tomorrow.

ASP Update

Congratualtions Mick Fanning on winning the 2010 Quiksilver France. He moved from the number five spot on the ASP World Tour into the number three spot. Kelly Slater, who placed as runner-up behind Fanning, maintained his number one positioning despite his finish. He should be able to grab his next world title if he has good finishes at the last three events and Mick Fanning or Jordy Smith don't come in first in those three events consecutively.

The next event at Supertubos in Peniche, Portugual will begin in two days on October 7th; there is a gigantic storm swirling in the Mid-Atlantic that should be blasting the western coast of portugual just as the event begins.

For live viewing, media, and news check out...

http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?Portugal2010

Crawlow

My first video edit. I have no idea what I am doing, this is all trial and error; I am using a free video editor called Jahshaka. When i render the video the audio gets a little messed up. If anyone knows anything about editing or has tips/insight on how to make better videos technically and artistically, your comments are very much appreciated.

Thanks and enjoy.

Sunset

I'm still working on getting my underwater cam back to snapping some pics. Got a few from the pier

June Gloom

June gloom, a manageable phenomenon in relation to the blustery afternoons that this Spring has produced, is once again settling thickly along the beaches from San Diego to LA and beyond. It is a moist and still mass of air that keeps us shaded from the sun during these early summer days.

I am, of course, no expert on the tendencies of the ocean as it heats and cools on a global scale - I am a twenty five year old child, with only eight years of surfing experience, and a meager three years with my watery eyes.

What I mean to say is that while I am inclined to the science and math involved in meteorology, and I am extremely fascinated with the admirable work of true forecasters, all I know is what I've seen. Up until a few years ago I would go out to the beach with a complete misunderstanding of the complex dynamics that the ocean and air have upon one another. For example, if I were going surfing on this day, say, five years ago, I would not check the forecasts or the winds, I would just end up at the beach. Maybe I would find dribblers and toddlers playing with one another; maybe it would be three-to-four feet and semi-glassy at 2PM with no one in the water. Regardless of the conditions, I would not make a mental note and soon forget about that day.

This was the only reason, in my opinion, that my surfing would not progress to the next level. My eyes were dry and full of sand, but now they are watery.

Despite my location, whether near the water or on the land, there is a reflection of the surf in my eyes. Everything I see is an indicator, all my sight is focused on the Earth, air, water and the messages they carry. I'm sure that a large population of Southern Californian beach-goers will relate with me, that we understand winds and weather through a basic human function rather than any sort of calculation or deduction. The extent of our focus is, "If it's hot then it's gonna be hot", and, "if it's supposed to rain then it might rain". In fact, while my knowledge of the weather and swell patterns for this region have only grown over these last three years, truly making the connection between graph, chart, buoy, and what I am seeing and feeling outside has only occurred within the last year. The crucial moment is when we realize that our human capabilities of intuition and knowledge can create a synergism in which we advance as beings. Even when not related to surfing, this combination of our intellect and our profound soul is something that brings an inner peace, being in accordance with the universe, and can be a valuable tool for all.